Hyvästi, Helsingfors!
- Kathryn Crowley
- Jan 26
- 5 min read
We are saying goodbye to Helsinki, at least for now, on Wednesday next. My husband has, somewhat prematurely, been re-assigned to a construction project back in Dublin, beginning next week. So it is with bitter-sweet emotions we are packing up our belongings, at least six months earlier than we had originally envisaged.
We, of course, will be delighted to be back with family and friends in Ireland, but perhaps we were not quite ready to wind up this 18-month Finnish adventure. So, what did I do for my last week in this lovely city in mid-January?
This winter has been much more typical of Finnish weather. We definitely got off lightly last winter! Daily average temperatures are about -7º with plenty of snow on the ground and occasional snow showers. However, once you are wrapped up, it is a lovely, crisp cold and perhaps better than the incessant rain that I am told is falling in Dublin these days.
Since fracturing my ankle here last October, I am still attending fortnightly physiotherapy sessions to strengthen my ankle and increase my mobility, so this has definitely curtailed my activities. I am not out walking as much as I used to be and am planning my excursions, using mostly public transport to get as near as possible to my destination. It has surprised me that lots of public footpaths are not regularly cleared of snow or gritted/salted and so they can be icy and a slip-hazard. We are lucky that the walkways immediately around our apartment and shopping centre are heat-traced, with underneath heating that prevents snow and ice accumulation on them, but that is rare and typically only to be found around modern, private developments.
One excursion this week was with the International Womens' Club Helsinki to the newly-renovated Mannerheim Museum in the lovely neighbourhood of Kaivopuisto. Carl Gustaf Emil Mannerheim (1867 – 27 January 1951) lived in the house for many years up to his death in 1951. He is a revered figure here in Finland, being both a military commander and statesman. The main street in Helsinki, a 5.5 km boulevard extending from the city centre is named after him. He served as the military leader of the Whites in the Finnish Civil War (1918), as regent of Finland (1918–1919), as commander-in-chief of the Finnish Defence Forces during World War II (1939–1945), and as the president of Finland (1944–1946). It was an interesting tour. The house itself was a beautiful example of the gorgeous architecture in this exclusive neighbourhood, many of which now are used as embassies. The building is one of the oldest preserved wooden buildings in Helsinki and is protected by the Building Heritage Act. Of course, its cultural value is linked to the house’s famous resident. The museum collections consist of the household effects of Gustaf Mannerheim and various artefacts he gained during his lifetime. The emphasis on his military honours was a little overdone for me, with one whole room devoted to the various decorations he received from various countries. It highlighted for me again that Finnish history is complex with its various occupations, wars and switching of allegiances, particularly in the years during his lifetime which spanned both world wars.
On the museum's website, it states:
We live in an era where crises escalating into war, shifting power relations, and growing polarization are shaping the world around us. At the same time, Finnishness is becoming increasingly diverse. These changes require an understanding of history – and the ability to interpret it from new perspectives. That is why we want to construct a more multifaceted narrative of Mannerheim and Finnish history. We invite the public to consider what the past can teach us about adaptation, survival, and hope in the midst of crisis. What kinds of roles and phases—often contradictory—did Mannerheim’s life entail, and what can we learn from them? What will patriotism look like in the future? How can we cherish education, culture and social peace in an increasingly divided world?
It's a tall order to expect answers to questions such as these from a museum visit, but perhaps if it gets visitors thinking and discussing such issues in today's world, it may help in some small way.
The other place I re-visited this past week was the floating pontoon bridge from Kaivopuisto to the small island of Uunisaari.
It looks completely different to my visit around this time last year when the bay was not iced over. This year, the pedestrian bridge was set up on Monday 17 November 2025. As the website states, it facilitates the recreational use of Uunisaari during the winter season, while cutting off the navigation channel between the island and the shore. In summer, to visit the island, you must hop on for a short ferry ride. Uunisaari consists of two connected islands, a northern one and a southern one, with a total area of approximately three hectares. Uunisaari is also connected by a pedestrian bridge to the neighbouring Liuskasaari. There is a very popular sauna on the island as well as a café. We were fascinated, though not surprised, by the groups of (crazy?!) Finnish people of all ages jumping into a small plunge area in the Baltic Sea after using the sauna (kept from icing over by a pump moving the water around). It was -9º air temperature while we were there and I wouldn't want to contemplate what the water temperature was. All I know is that I got cold from looking at them!
I will write a few more blog posts about life in Helsinki in the coming weeks, as I didn't get around to writing about some of our experiences here. But one thing I won't miss is the cost of living. And mainly the prohibitive cost of a cup of coffee and a glass of wine.
But as it was our last weekend, we re-visited some of our favourite places to imbibe. One of these is Café Engel, the iconic coffee house in Senate Square, directly opposite Helsinki Cathedral. The building in which Café Engel is located is one of the oldest in Helsinki. The ground floor was built in 1765 in the place of an old pipe factory.
We re-visited the cafe on Uunisaari and it is so bright and light at this time of year with the reflection of the surrounding snow and ice. I finally succumbed to eating a seasonal Runeberg torte. Johan Ludvig Runeberg (1804–1877) is considered to be Finland’s national poet and his birthday is celebrated in Finland on February 5th. Apparently his wife Frederika used to bake the pastry for him for his breakfast. I would not be as enthusiastic as Ludvig about its dry, almondy flavour but I had to try it at least once before I left.
We visited O'Malley's for the last time where the Finnish barman sings a great sean-nós song as Gaeilge.
We also had a fancy cocktail in the Wintergarden in the St George Hotel. I didn't try their signature Learning to Fly cocktail which is served out of a bird-shaped glass.
I am keeping that in reserve for the next time I am there, whenever that may happen to be.
Yes C, very mixed emotions. But it will be lovely to be home too on so many respects. As long as it stops raining!
Wow, the only part of these blogs i have a problem with Kathryn is the fact that I get envious when I see the pristine snowcovered landscape.
You really are making the most of Finland despite your ankle being in a state of recovery.. P.S. The photos are beautiful... Keep up the marvellous blogs..
A bittersweet post, Kathryn, and the winter light creates the perfect backdrop in your photos. What an adventure you have had in Helsinki. Yes, do brace yourself for the Irish weather. There's a lot to be said for hibernation. C in Cork